The Darien Gap

Avoiding The Darien Gap. 07/02/2012.

Life aboard the good Ship Stahlratte.

  The Darien Gap is a 100 mile is a large swath of undeveloped swampland and forest, separating Panama from Columbia. There is no road, so an alternative solution has to be found. There are only 2 ways to cross, air or sea, but factor in the cost of a motorcycle as well it can become expensive and possibly difficult. http://www.stahlratte.de/index_neu_en.html The Sail boat Stahltatte was an easy choice, the passage took 5 days and was an amazing experience.

  On the30/01/2012 arrangements were made for all sailing on the Stahlratte to meet at Tocumen Airport, Panama. Soon there were 11 bikes and riders, we all road from there to Carti to meet the boat. A challenging ride in the hills, very steep and twisty, the tarmac often turning to unsurfaced road without warning. We were entering Kuna territory, the Kuna's live in 3 politically autonomous reservations in Panama, and a few in Columbia, the total population is around 50,000. We had to pay $9.0 U.S.Dollars to enter their territory.

Steep and winding road to Carti.

The Good Ship "Stahlratte" Built 1904.

The loading pontoon in the foreground.

I'm pleased that I only bought an old bike.

Dangling on a rope.

11bikes in total, they were all covered up before we sailed.

An Island, belonging to to Kuna People.

We went ashore to see the life style.

Simple houses, Palm or tin roofs, dirt floors.

There is electricity in some homes, supplied by a generator.

Fishing boats under repair.

Wood glue made from gasoline, wood shavings and polystyrene packaging.

Dug out canoe,made from a tree trunk.

We all had to be Kitchen Bitch for 1 day.

Better than working !!!

Home to only nature.

The water was warm, many fish could be seen.

 We anchored by the San Blas Islands for two days. At daybreak the sails were hoisted, at this moment in time paradise was soon to be left far behind. There was a north easterly wind blowing, and quite a swell on the sea. I was looking forward to the rough sea, but spent the next 8 hours with my head over the side of the boat. Captain Ludwig (Lulu) as he was called offered me some pills, I didn't refuse, deciding on the right moment to take them was the difficult decision. Moving from my position would induce another session  of sickness. Sat at the stern of the boat, the diesel fumes added to the misery, the swell of the sea would often take the horizon out of sight, I did notice, when I could focus Dolphins at one time following the boat, in between sessions of me calling for my mate Ralph !! I swallowed 2 dry pills, they did stay down for only 20 minutes, just enough time, as after that I fell asleep for 5 or more hours, when I woke I staggered to my bunk and slept the night to the crashing of the waves on the bow of the boat. All was calm at daybreak, we had arrived in good time to Cartegena Harbour, Columbia. I am sorry to say that there are no photo's of the rough sea, most of the other passengers were feeling the same. The time had now come to take the bikes ashore, a rather daunting task at this moment in time, as the energy levels are a little low. The unloading of the bikes appeared to be a precarious affair, as there was not a wharf to load on to. What appeared to be a dodgy operation was in fact a smooth operation, not hobbled by health and safety rules !!

The boat remained anchored in the harbour, the bikes were winched from the deck of the Stahlratte into rubber boat alongside. When the bike was in the inflatable boat, the rider climbed overboard of the Stahlratte and sat on the bike with your feet on the side of the bouncy boat to support the bike in a vertical position. It did feel strange to feel the boat flexing with the waves as you headed towards to quayside, as the boat was narrow if was difficult to offer much support. Once at the Quay, ropes were attached to the bike, and muscle power used to haul the bike the 1 metre from the boat to the quayside. With four helpers, the bikes just sprang out of the boat, onto the quay. Easy ! Health and safety ?? Not been invented here.
Watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMNvYIQH3dE&context=C328a26aADOEgsToPDskJZ3pWuSy4OUzehvYz-RlNG

Sunrise, Cartagena Harbour.

Cartagena, from the Stahlratte.

  Once the bikes were all unloaded, we all had to go to Customs to collect the temporary import documents, before we are let loose on the road. It was no surprise that by 5pm nothing had materialised, so all 11 of us had to return on Saturday morning to wait another 3 hours, the downside apart from the waste of time was that we were unable to buy insurance until Monday morning.