north to south america: Costa Rica.

12/01/2012

The Border crossing at Las Manos/El Espino was almost easy. The 3 mile que of trucks at the border approach was a little worrying, but proved to be no problem. It did take me 2.5 hours to sweat my way through, lots of waiting and running around for the elusive photocopy and the compulsory bike insurance. It is always a good workout, tramping around the border, this one in particular was quite spread out, and the road and paths were covered in slimy mud. Borders are most unattractive, in so many ways. Always pleased to hit the open road again, Costa Rica was noticeably clean and tidy, with road gangs of men grass cutting the road side verges. I have not had the pleasure of the smell of freshly cut grass for sometime now.

The first sight of Costa Rica.

The Pan Am Highway to Liberia.

The road was perfect all the way to the town of Liberia, light traffic, except for a convoy of trucks every now and again. I stopped to buy some cold water, the heat was quite intense, in the the time that it took me to buy the water the thermometer had hit 100 deg F in the shade. Rolling into Liberia, I was surprised to see so many familiar banks and high street names. It all looks very upmarket and modern, a good place to adjust to a new country and see what you get for your money. Whenever you see that blot on the landscape sign of Mc Donald's or Burger king, you just know that there will be no cultural surprises, and you just know that the big fast food chains would never open a restaurant in any thing but affluent areas or country's. There were no real surprises here, I stayed 2 nights for a clean up and country adjustment. Costa Rica is more expensive than the previous visited country's, at a guess I would say around 30% more expensive. Still on a mission south, I can afford the time to slow the pace a little now, but still feel the need to get closer to Panama. I head towards Puerto Limon on the Caribbean coast. The Pan Am Highway takes me towards the capitol city of San Jose, I try and avoid that by heading north towards Vulcan Barva north of the city.

San Jose from Vulcan Barva.

Beautiful views on the way to the summit of Vulcan Barva.

It was a steep climb up the road to the volcano,the road eventually ended into a very steep rocky track that I decided might not be the best idea of the day to ride alone. The time was getting late and I have to find some place to stay, I turned around and continued on the road north to the Caribbean coast. After 30 odd miles road works had closed the road, and I followed the diversion that eventually led to a dead end. I had hoped to buy fuel too at some time, but there were no gas stations. I have been up this street before, in the middle of nowhere and low on fuel, it's always the same! Nothing like a little tension to keep you sharp. It is mostly all downhill back to San Jose, so I hope to make it, but the lack of sign posts or any other information makes for tense moments With diminishing light I stressfully make it back to the city buy fuel and look for an alternative route, and hopefully find some place to stay out of the city. There is the small town of Heredia, just north of San Jose, I saw one huge sign post and that was it, I was then presented with a spaghetti intersection with no direction. I took a chance, it was a mistake, and I had to pay the toll at the end, only to pay again to return. Back in the city I have to make more guesses as there are no signs to give direction, I'll just take a road that heads north. Lucky for me the plan worked, I found myself in Heredia. I cruised every one way street in the town, the rain and the altitude made it cold and miserable. I asked questions, but got no answers, it would appear that this town is without hotels. The streets are crammed with cars and taxi cab drivers all honking at one another to move along in an impossible situation, a red traffic light! It is total mayhem, cold and wet I relent and go for a hot drink from Mc Donald's, but after a long wait the machine is broken. Down on my luck, the decision to leave town was easy, so I continued north with the hope of finding some place to stay. Out of town the road takes me higher in to the hills, with fog and rain, the road eventually ends in road works and finally a dirt track. Unable to see clearly, and being pushed along by impatient taxi drivers I dive off the road to think what next. I see some lights in the distance, it turns out to be a dodgy looking bar, too rough to even ask I thought, the darkness and the weather was too dangerous to continue so I turned around, worst case situation I return to San Jose. Heading back to Heredia the headlights of an oncoming vehicle illuminated a wooden sign advertising Cabina's for rent, the site was still under construction, a deal was done, I had a roof for the night. Lucky at last.

San Jose from Vulcan Barva.

Rain over Heredia.

It rained on and off for most of the night, so lucky I was, even had a hot shower with no dangerous electrical connections! I planned another route to take me to Puerto Limon, up over the hills and through some amazing scenery, the ride was interrupted often by rain, not wanting to get completely soaked shop canopy's and bus shelters provide shelter.

Shelter from the rain

Tropical rain, close to Puerto Limon

The weather patterns are noticeably changing now that I am getting closer to the Caribbean coast, heavy intense showers that last for 20 minutes of more have replaced the cloudy gloom of the city. The road cuts through dense rain forest, the air is heavy and humid. The Caribbean coast of Costa Rica is so different. My destination is Puerto Viejo, where I can groove to the reggae beat and surf the waves, so I have been told.

Caribbean coast south of Puerto Viejo

Fresh coco's on the wooden table. I cut it open and drank the sugary liquid.

The coast at Puerto Viejo

A tropical storm on its way. It is still warm, about 30 deg C

The small town of Puerto Viejo, early morning.

Wonderful coast.

And laid back it was, the Rasta cool was evident, the ganja is banned but you would never know it. Bob Marley is alive and well,the reggae beat drifting on the breeze, everyone happy, or was that the herb? So cool and easy, I could have stayed longer, 7 days was not enough !

A shanty town of wooden shacks it is.